Paris, Fly by Night
Posted: Thu Oct 03, 2002 9:05 pm
People often ask me what exactly it is that I do (when I am actually doing something, that is). I find it hard to explain because I do all sorts of things and they are often quite strange. It's easier for me to just tell a story.
Here then, is a recent episode from my business life, which I hope you will like. By golly, I have even gone so far as to watch my spelling, and to use large caps sometimes.
And it is a true story, more or less.
Sorry it's so long!
--------------------------------
Paris, Fly by Night
"Well Mr Yamamuchi, how nice of you to call. Yes, well I guess I am doing all right, as good as could be expected under the circumstances. Paris?, sure! ... I see, yes sure, I'll wait for your email memo. Yes, the usual price. Well thanks for thinking of me, always glad to be of service... so long, Yamanuchi-san."
A call in the morn, a welcome bit of work after a long stretch of doing nothing in particular and making very little money whatsoever. I am a competitive intelligence specialist, which is a fancy way of saying that I investigate things. My field of competence is information technology, in particular telecommunications, but these are depressed industries at the moment. The 1990s are over for sure and I am glad to get a piece of the stuff I used to do in the 80s, namely some automotive-industry work.
I call my best drinking buddy Markus who for some reason is known by the name Orbiwan Kenorbi. He is what people call a character. Mid-30, permanently in debt, owns a small used-book shop, reads two books a week, and goes out just about every night. A great drug user but seldom an abuser. Has had relations with some of the best-looking women in town. Looks permanently hung over, dark rings around his eyes, pale skin; always has a kind word on his lips and a hilarious story to tell.
"Kenorbi this is M. Got a bit of business I might need some help with. Means going to Paris for a day. Involves talking to people, taking pix, observation and analysis. You'll do backup for me, for the most part, actually."
"Any money in it?"
"You bet. Same as last time when you worked with me."
"When are we leaving?"
I pick him up that night at 4 AM. Damn, this is not my time of day. I had slept a fitful four hours and managed to get my head somewhat clear with a scalding hot and ice-cold shower, a shave, a pitcher of fruit juice and two cups of espresso with hot milk.
Kenorbi's apartment is a nightmare: two rooms with all walls hidden behind double-stacked bookshelves packed right up to the 12-foot ceiling. There is dust everywhere. In his bed there is a girl I have never seem before: very pretty but certainly not his girlfriend.
"Mona you really got to go, sorry about this."
Kenoribi looks like he hasn't slept and neither has Mona but at least she doesn't have a four day beard. Kenorbi is putting on a blue shirt I see him fish from a hamper. He slips on a pre-tied necktie, and puts on a dark suit.
"Man Kenorbi, you look like shit."
"Yeah well don't knock it M, you know I work hard to achieve this effect... Come on Mona, please."
Mona yawns, gets out of bed and smiles at me as she puts her slip on. I try not to bat my eyes and also try not to look at her breasts or at her bush. Not sure whether I am successful.
A few minutes later and we are off to Paris. The streets are empty and so are the autobahns, save some trucks. I had recorded Frank Black, Housemartins, Coldplay and Wayland Jennings for the MD player to which we listen when we don't talk. We speed through to the Saar, cross the border and continue our treck through Alsace and Lorraine. Kenorbi smokes like a furnace, eats egg-on-bread sandwiches, swallows homeopathic globules against a cold-induced cough and drinks water while I push my Citroen for what it's worth, which is unfortunately no more than 110 mph. Kenorbi lost his license in an alcohol-related incident a year ago so it will be my job to drive the 400 miles each way.
We have a cup of coffee in the Champagne, Kenorbi pops some speed in the Picardie, and we reach the Boulevard Peripherique, the Paris ring road, by 9 AM. We are in the midst of rush-hour chaos, with motorcycles vrooming between lanes and drivers cutting in front of each other.
We head for the exposition grounds at Porte Versailles where the big international auto show takes place every two years. Our job is to evaluate the opinion of various experts about certain components of some new auto models. The parking garage is full so we park on the Boulevard opposite the fair grounds, get our press accreditation (don't ask), and enter the halls.
By the time we are there, it is busy -- the morning of the first day of one of the biggest industry events of the world, with teams of journalists from all the world, auto maker employees, supplier staff, and mixed service personnel. The nicest part, of course, are the hostesses: gorgeous young things who know nothing and care nothing of the auto industry but work at the information stands, passing out information and answering simple questions. Kenorbi gets big greedy eyes so that I must constantly remind him that business has to be attended to.
The business part is easy, actually; what Yamanuchi asked me to do is a piece of cake. We take pictures, nose around, ask a lot of questions, gather information material, and spend much time simply observing things and making notes. It is quite fun for me because I like some of the cars I am looking at, like the MCC Smart Roadster Coupe: a spartan, lightweight rear-engined two seater. A car that does not give you a false, SUV-like feeling of security -- you don't drive like an idiot, because you know that you will suffer the consequences of a driving mistake.
Later I call Kenorbi on his mobile.
"How's it going my friend?"
"Pretty good; I'm progressing fairly well."
"So am I. Where are you right now?"
"At Bentley."
"Bentley? What the fuck are you doing at Bentley? We have no business with Bentley."
"Man, these cars are the shit. I gotta show you this."
I go over to the Bentley stand. Kenorbi is sitting in the back of a $410,000 Bentley coupe; a hostess is sitting next to him, explaining the functions of the DVD system. I stand for a while watching him check out the hydraulic seats, the carpeting, the sound controls... After a few minutes the girl, a busty mid-20 redhead dressed in a black low-cut suit, exits the car with the words "well thank you for your interest, and don't hesitate to let me know if there is anything I can do", with a perfect smile.
I climb into the back seat next to Kenorbi.
"What is it you are doing here."
"Isn't this some fine shit? Look at this car, M. Wow this is good".
"Damn, to me it's just two dead trees and four dead cows wrapped up with an overweight hunk of metal."
"Hell that's because you do not appreciate the aesthetics. You are just too primitive. You only see the ingredients. Take it from me, I look at it like a DJ: it's all in the mix, baby! I suppose when you go to a three-star restaurant and they serve you a meal you say hey, this is just some tomatoes, butter and dead fish."
"Yeah well never mind what I see, apart from the fact that I see that while you are wasting your time appreciating the aesthetics, I have been breaking my ass to get some work done. Come on, let's get moving Kenorbi."
"Well look at mister straight-laced family man, telling his friends what to do. You being the boss, the big man here?"
I ponder the situation for a moment and seriously consider smacking Kenorbi, or at least giving him a quick poke in the guts. A very attractive idea, even though I am normally a gentle person. Teach him manners and some efficient working habits. Help him get on in life, compliments of the boss.
Kenorbi gives me a meek smile, a glint of an eye.
"Sorry to get personal M., I guess the speed is getting the best of me. And the heat and the luxury and the ladies."
"OK. I think we might be hungry too, let's get some food."
We enter the Mercedes-Benz area and wander to the press department, into a back room where the temperature is high but the smell of gourmet food is enticing. A cook who looks like a young Yves Montand serves us a vegetarian souffle and crab salad, with champage to wash it down. Next course is paté and something made of fennel. We decide to stay light, especially in view of work to do and the heat in the dining area, so we finish with exceptional cheeses accompanied by Bordeaux. And some coffee afterwards with our cigarettes. If it weren't so hot we'd stay much longer and eat much more, but after a half hour we are finished and very sated, albeit sweaty.
Wandering out, we see that within the Mercedes complex is Maybach, which is the new superluxury brand of Daimler-Benz, with prices starting at $330,000. The Maybach cars are two-tone battleships that once again prove that Germans have a keen understanding of all things fatso. Kenorbi smiles at a hostess who looks like she has blue blood.
"Hey how are things moving madam"
"Quite well actually, we just released a press briefing explaining how a major order came in from a desert country, for 1,000 vehicles at an average price of $413,000."
"Well bully to you. Good work"
"Why thank you. Sir, may I show you some of the unique and innovative features of the Maybach 620. If you will notice the electronic rear seats which automatically adjust seat belts and airbags to protect a passenger even when he is travelling in a reclining position"
"Ha ha would've come in handy for Lady Diana"
"Ha ha you bet, sir."
I hate to interrupt the good humor but I nudge Kenorbi, saying we should move on. Kenorbi concurs and says to the hostess:
"Sorry but we have to leave. By the way, do you have any pins?"
I cringe: souvenir pins are typical collectibles of 14 year boys. Kenorbi however probably has some quick Ebay profits in mind.
"Er yes, well we don't have pins quite yet. But they will be made available at the Maybach party tonite, at the Plaza Hotel."
"Well that sounds like good fun. Will we be on the guest list?"
The hostess with the aristocratic features gives us a good look. Me, old red-eyes, tieless in street clothes. Kenorbi with his four-day beard, sweaty face, rumpled suit and worn shoes. Obviously had a few, too.
"All right, it can be done. Just leave your cards with me, please."
We move on, work for another two hours and are then finished. We leave the exposition grounds and go to my car on the street. However, it has changed its color. And its shape and brand. Wrong: it becomes apparent that my car is no longer there. It was in a no parking zone but not in a towaway area, though.
I make some phone calls and hear that the police has towed it away to a commissariat a few blocks away. It seems they like to do that to foreigners who as a rule don't pay parking tickets. Meanwhile, Kenorbi had wandered away but comes back after a minute, with a beer can in his hand, steaming.
"Fuck this shit, fuck it, fuck the fucking french and the fucking cops, stupid fucking fascists. This is gonna be expensive and cost us. Why didn't you have the sense to park the car in the fucking parking garage?"
"Because it was more convenient this way. And you didn't say i should."
"Yeah then I'm fucking stupid too. I hate this shit."
"Now settle down Kenorbi, it's a normal occurance when you drive a car, remember?"
He shrugs and lights a cig. I cross the street in the assumed direction of the police station. Kenorbi soon follows me, jaywalking over, through honking cars, to a traffic police woman on a traffic isle. He asks her for directions while I hide behind a van, embarrassed. She looks at this wild-eyed man, beer can in one hand, cigarette in the other, in ignorance of traffic rules, and she smiles. Looks inside her leather-bound booklet with maps and tells Kenorbi where to go. He gives her a smile and nod of thanks and then crosses the street, again on a red light, again forcing cars to swerve and honk.
Three blocks though the gorgeous sun and we can't help loving Paris again. We reach the police station which is actually an underground, glass-enclosed, camera-protected area. The lady in charge, a young black lady with a sweet smile, banters with us and explains, very patiently, where we can find the car after paying the $95 fee. Before we take an elevator down three stories, she tells us to have a nice stay in Paris, and to try not to break any more traffic laws.
In a sooty, dark and dank area we find the car and get in to drive away, but at that moment two Mad-Max-type tow-trucklets stop ahead of us, blocking our path. The drivers, young african guys with surley expressions on their faces, get out, greet each other and light cigarettes, and start to have a chat.
This goes on a few minutes, and we get impatient. I start my car's engine and rev it a few times, but the black guys continue to ignore us. I put on the headlights, but no reaction: this is their territory and they are glad to let us wait. Not knowing what else to do, I look in the corners of the car for some suitably bad music and find an old Radiohead MD: OK Computer, a record I played about 60 times in 1996 but now find unlistenable. I crank up the volume; the guys give us a slightly pained look and get in their trucks and we are free to leave.
"Kenorbi, what about dinner before we drive home."
"Why, let's go to the Plaza, of course. Maybach is waiting for us."
"Are you kidding? The Plaza is the best hotel in Paris. We're not dressed right. We look like bums."
"But M, think about it. Food and drinks. Nice ladies. Adventure. All free of charge. The worst thing that could happen is that they don't let us in."
I think about it. He does have a point.
So we drive to the Champs Elysee, take a left on Montaigne and there we are, the Plaza Athénée Paris. A smallish hotel that was the favorite place for the Roosevelts, for Mata Hari, the Kennedys, and countless other luminaries. Our plan to hit the restrooms and freshen up is obviously flawed because by the way we look, we might not even get into the lobby. We pass by numerous bodyguards and foreign-looking guys dressed Knesset-style, with shirt collars over suit jackets, whispering into mobile phones. A quick look around the small lobby, but there is no sign of a Maybach party. There are, however, two maitre d's in front of the entrance to the three-michelin-star restaurant where an evening menu meal costs around $300, drinks not included. Most people here look like they could buy and sell me in a morning's bout of easy business. And I am wearing the brown synthetic Stussy jacket in which McCutcheon slept one night in Seattle. My clothes are quite pricey actually, but they sure don't look it.
I approach a young lady in a beige suit who is standing around aimlessly, looking official.
"Excuse me, would you happen to know where the Maybach party is taking place tonite."
"Ah yes welcome, please follow me"
We go through long soft-lighted halls where beautiful young things sit on sofas, looking bored. At the entrance to a bar stand three managerial-type ladies dressed in expensive black. We say good evening and are asked for our invitation cards; there is no list of invitees.
"Sorry, we don't have cards but the young lady at the Maybach stand invited us."
"And may I ask who this young lady was?"
"Oh sorry, I forgot her name."
"Hm."
Kenorbi, nervous, blurts out:
"Well actually I just asked her for pins and she said to come to the party to get them".
I give him a wide-eyed stare at this blunder. He is obviously shocked at his own unthinking words. Full of pity, I go into autopilot and ignite my most charming smile.
"Really really sorry, there seems to be a misunderstanding. We were under the impression that this was a regular press party and upon being invited came here without proper preparation. If it is a black-tie event we will be glad to return later in appropriate garb."
The hostess gives me a smile and a long inquisitive look. And scans Kenorbi who looks really grungy.
"Oh never mind, I think it is quite in order. Please come in and just enjoy yourself."
We enter and a waiter dressed in Comme des Garcons leads us to a lounge table. We are served champagne (1988 Vueve Cliquot Royale which we take instead of one of the wines being offered, for example a 1990 Louis Latour Beaune, Premier Cru), and a selection from the first round of amuses bouches -- small foodlets to tickle the palate:
Osetra caviar from the Caspian Sea
Pata Negra Bellota ham with gribiche sauce
Baby lobster and shellfish, clear lobster broth with herbs
Red Atlantic tuna sashimi with white truffles, mango, coriander and truffles in a salad
...
We eat and drink with a feeling of relief.
"Man M, that was close. You saved my ass."
"Think nothing of it Kenorbi. Just do me one favor."
"Anything you say."
"Whatever you do, don't be stuffing your pockets with the foodstuffs or with the ashtrays here, okay?"
"You asshole. You think I am some kinda cheap bum, don't you."
"Ha ha just joking. Listen Kenorbi, it's great to be here in Paris, isn't it."
"You bet M, this town has class."
We drink some more, eat some more, drink some more... you get the picture. After five glasses of Champs I don't mind the feeling of being out of place. I feel happy and fully of energy and slightly disreputable even though the folks in the Maybach bar are, quite simply, boring. The guys are either old, or young and dour, and the women either look like the wives of Mercedes managers from Stuttgart, or like ex-whore trophy wives.
"This place sucks actually. I thought it was supposed to be fun to be super-rich. I mean look, the Champagne probably costs $200 a bottle but they were too cheap to hire a DJ."
"I know exactly what you mean M but let's enjoy it for what it's worth. Let's see, Hennessy, Maybach cigars, hmm."
Kenorbi orders cigarettes to accompany the brandy which the waitor duly brings. The waitor waits with a stiff smile on his face while Kenorbi lights up. After a short while he says,
"Monsieur five Euros please."
"Come again?"
"Five (pause) Euros".
"Oh, of course."
Obviously Kenorbi thought he would gets the cigs for free. With a dazed look he pulls out his unbelievably threadbare wallet, probably realizing he is broke. I am once again embarrassed and imagine people all around observing us. Suddenly Kenorbi's mobile phone rings and he is saved by the bell. I give the waiter a ten.
We drink and eat and smoke some more. It is getting late and I suggest to drive home. We both have to be in our offices the following day.
"Ah well I can understand you and indeed, we have seen all of what this place has to offer us. Obviously no more adventure to be had here. But instead of going home I have a better idea."
"Kenorbi are you fucking with me once again."
"No really listen to me. Just please take it into serious consideration. I know you are tired enough and you have to drive a lot tonight. But I just had a vision how nice it would be to visit the Rivoli again."
I press my fingers to my temples. The Rivoli, the royal squatters palace. Where with luck a pleasurable few hours are guaranteed. But I am tired as hell.
"Please M. You know, I don't get to Paris so often. It is important to me."
The house at 59, rue Rivoli is covered with a giant spider's web made of polyester. Giant plastic sunflowers and blue replica fish are fixed to the web. It is in a noble area of Paris, with boutiques and perfume shops next door. We ring the bell, the door opens, we go up the stairs to a large room filled with paintings and people.
"Hi, is Gaspard around?"
If the Rivoli is the squatters' palace, then Gaspard is the resident king. He is small, dark and wears a brown pork pie hat and a wide smile on his face.
"Well look at this, are my tired old eyes playing tricks on me or do I see two crazy Germans? Markus, Martino, welcome, welcome! You can only stay for a short while? Impossible!... well, c'est pas grave, I am glad to see you, above all. Come for drinks and smokes and say hello to my friends."
It has been years but some things don't change. A group of artists who at one point decided to squat and were cheeky enough to do it in an expensive part of town. Smart people, they turned their house into a local art area with free exhibitions and courses for local children and gained much popular recognition. Nevertheless, it is what they call the nervous season because, according to French law, nobody can be evicted from a house from November to March and since this is late September, some last-minute evictions are to be feared.
I talk with a few friends of Gaspard and enjoy the warm emotions, and feel at home. A squeal of joy, loud giggling: two girls recognize Kenorbi, he hugs and kisses them on the mouth.
"Sylvie!, Mathilde! What a joy to see you two beautiful women".
After a while, over the talk and music, I notice Kenorbi disappearing with his lady friends. I am slightly worried but actually just envious and decide to let it pass. After all the work and champagne and wine and food and driving I wish I had access to a few of Kenorbi's grams of amphetamines because I am getting drowsy and a guy says,
"my friend you look knackered, why not relax for a moment on the sofa here,"
which I do, and pretty soon I pass out.
Some time later a noise of a door slamming wakes me and I see it is 3:30 am. Most people have gone to bed and someone has been so kind as to put a blanket over me. I fish my mobile out of my jacket and dial Kenorbi.
"Hey man. I hate to do this, but I think you best finish what ever you are doing and come over to the main room, we have got to go, I have to be home in a few hours."
"Well. It is difficult but OK, I promised we could leave whenever you asked. Just give me five minutes."
He arrives alone, with a weary but happy look on his face.
"Kenorbi, I know what you are thinking. More importantly, I know what you are feeling. You feel you belong here, in this town. I understand that."
"Ah M, you may be right, but what the hell. You in any case have your beautiful family waiting for you at home. And your business too."
"That's right."
"I also have work to do in Frankfurt. And my girlfriend is waiting for me".
"Not to forget Mona."
Kenorbi gives me a puzzled look.
"Who is Mona?"
---------
all rights reserved 2002 m balsamico
Here then, is a recent episode from my business life, which I hope you will like. By golly, I have even gone so far as to watch my spelling, and to use large caps sometimes.
And it is a true story, more or less.
Sorry it's so long!
--------------------------------
Paris, Fly by Night
"Well Mr Yamamuchi, how nice of you to call. Yes, well I guess I am doing all right, as good as could be expected under the circumstances. Paris?, sure! ... I see, yes sure, I'll wait for your email memo. Yes, the usual price. Well thanks for thinking of me, always glad to be of service... so long, Yamanuchi-san."
A call in the morn, a welcome bit of work after a long stretch of doing nothing in particular and making very little money whatsoever. I am a competitive intelligence specialist, which is a fancy way of saying that I investigate things. My field of competence is information technology, in particular telecommunications, but these are depressed industries at the moment. The 1990s are over for sure and I am glad to get a piece of the stuff I used to do in the 80s, namely some automotive-industry work.
I call my best drinking buddy Markus who for some reason is known by the name Orbiwan Kenorbi. He is what people call a character. Mid-30, permanently in debt, owns a small used-book shop, reads two books a week, and goes out just about every night. A great drug user but seldom an abuser. Has had relations with some of the best-looking women in town. Looks permanently hung over, dark rings around his eyes, pale skin; always has a kind word on his lips and a hilarious story to tell.
"Kenorbi this is M. Got a bit of business I might need some help with. Means going to Paris for a day. Involves talking to people, taking pix, observation and analysis. You'll do backup for me, for the most part, actually."
"Any money in it?"
"You bet. Same as last time when you worked with me."
"When are we leaving?"
I pick him up that night at 4 AM. Damn, this is not my time of day. I had slept a fitful four hours and managed to get my head somewhat clear with a scalding hot and ice-cold shower, a shave, a pitcher of fruit juice and two cups of espresso with hot milk.
Kenorbi's apartment is a nightmare: two rooms with all walls hidden behind double-stacked bookshelves packed right up to the 12-foot ceiling. There is dust everywhere. In his bed there is a girl I have never seem before: very pretty but certainly not his girlfriend.
"Mona you really got to go, sorry about this."
Kenoribi looks like he hasn't slept and neither has Mona but at least she doesn't have a four day beard. Kenorbi is putting on a blue shirt I see him fish from a hamper. He slips on a pre-tied necktie, and puts on a dark suit.
"Man Kenorbi, you look like shit."
"Yeah well don't knock it M, you know I work hard to achieve this effect... Come on Mona, please."
Mona yawns, gets out of bed and smiles at me as she puts her slip on. I try not to bat my eyes and also try not to look at her breasts or at her bush. Not sure whether I am successful.
A few minutes later and we are off to Paris. The streets are empty and so are the autobahns, save some trucks. I had recorded Frank Black, Housemartins, Coldplay and Wayland Jennings for the MD player to which we listen when we don't talk. We speed through to the Saar, cross the border and continue our treck through Alsace and Lorraine. Kenorbi smokes like a furnace, eats egg-on-bread sandwiches, swallows homeopathic globules against a cold-induced cough and drinks water while I push my Citroen for what it's worth, which is unfortunately no more than 110 mph. Kenorbi lost his license in an alcohol-related incident a year ago so it will be my job to drive the 400 miles each way.
We have a cup of coffee in the Champagne, Kenorbi pops some speed in the Picardie, and we reach the Boulevard Peripherique, the Paris ring road, by 9 AM. We are in the midst of rush-hour chaos, with motorcycles vrooming between lanes and drivers cutting in front of each other.
We head for the exposition grounds at Porte Versailles where the big international auto show takes place every two years. Our job is to evaluate the opinion of various experts about certain components of some new auto models. The parking garage is full so we park on the Boulevard opposite the fair grounds, get our press accreditation (don't ask), and enter the halls.
By the time we are there, it is busy -- the morning of the first day of one of the biggest industry events of the world, with teams of journalists from all the world, auto maker employees, supplier staff, and mixed service personnel. The nicest part, of course, are the hostesses: gorgeous young things who know nothing and care nothing of the auto industry but work at the information stands, passing out information and answering simple questions. Kenorbi gets big greedy eyes so that I must constantly remind him that business has to be attended to.
The business part is easy, actually; what Yamanuchi asked me to do is a piece of cake. We take pictures, nose around, ask a lot of questions, gather information material, and spend much time simply observing things and making notes. It is quite fun for me because I like some of the cars I am looking at, like the MCC Smart Roadster Coupe: a spartan, lightweight rear-engined two seater. A car that does not give you a false, SUV-like feeling of security -- you don't drive like an idiot, because you know that you will suffer the consequences of a driving mistake.
Later I call Kenorbi on his mobile.
"How's it going my friend?"
"Pretty good; I'm progressing fairly well."
"So am I. Where are you right now?"
"At Bentley."
"Bentley? What the fuck are you doing at Bentley? We have no business with Bentley."
"Man, these cars are the shit. I gotta show you this."
I go over to the Bentley stand. Kenorbi is sitting in the back of a $410,000 Bentley coupe; a hostess is sitting next to him, explaining the functions of the DVD system. I stand for a while watching him check out the hydraulic seats, the carpeting, the sound controls... After a few minutes the girl, a busty mid-20 redhead dressed in a black low-cut suit, exits the car with the words "well thank you for your interest, and don't hesitate to let me know if there is anything I can do", with a perfect smile.
I climb into the back seat next to Kenorbi.
"What is it you are doing here."
"Isn't this some fine shit? Look at this car, M. Wow this is good".
"Damn, to me it's just two dead trees and four dead cows wrapped up with an overweight hunk of metal."
"Hell that's because you do not appreciate the aesthetics. You are just too primitive. You only see the ingredients. Take it from me, I look at it like a DJ: it's all in the mix, baby! I suppose when you go to a three-star restaurant and they serve you a meal you say hey, this is just some tomatoes, butter and dead fish."
"Yeah well never mind what I see, apart from the fact that I see that while you are wasting your time appreciating the aesthetics, I have been breaking my ass to get some work done. Come on, let's get moving Kenorbi."
"Well look at mister straight-laced family man, telling his friends what to do. You being the boss, the big man here?"
I ponder the situation for a moment and seriously consider smacking Kenorbi, or at least giving him a quick poke in the guts. A very attractive idea, even though I am normally a gentle person. Teach him manners and some efficient working habits. Help him get on in life, compliments of the boss.
Kenorbi gives me a meek smile, a glint of an eye.
"Sorry to get personal M., I guess the speed is getting the best of me. And the heat and the luxury and the ladies."
"OK. I think we might be hungry too, let's get some food."
We enter the Mercedes-Benz area and wander to the press department, into a back room where the temperature is high but the smell of gourmet food is enticing. A cook who looks like a young Yves Montand serves us a vegetarian souffle and crab salad, with champage to wash it down. Next course is paté and something made of fennel. We decide to stay light, especially in view of work to do and the heat in the dining area, so we finish with exceptional cheeses accompanied by Bordeaux. And some coffee afterwards with our cigarettes. If it weren't so hot we'd stay much longer and eat much more, but after a half hour we are finished and very sated, albeit sweaty.
Wandering out, we see that within the Mercedes complex is Maybach, which is the new superluxury brand of Daimler-Benz, with prices starting at $330,000. The Maybach cars are two-tone battleships that once again prove that Germans have a keen understanding of all things fatso. Kenorbi smiles at a hostess who looks like she has blue blood.
"Hey how are things moving madam"
"Quite well actually, we just released a press briefing explaining how a major order came in from a desert country, for 1,000 vehicles at an average price of $413,000."
"Well bully to you. Good work"
"Why thank you. Sir, may I show you some of the unique and innovative features of the Maybach 620. If you will notice the electronic rear seats which automatically adjust seat belts and airbags to protect a passenger even when he is travelling in a reclining position"
"Ha ha would've come in handy for Lady Diana"
"Ha ha you bet, sir."
I hate to interrupt the good humor but I nudge Kenorbi, saying we should move on. Kenorbi concurs and says to the hostess:
"Sorry but we have to leave. By the way, do you have any pins?"
I cringe: souvenir pins are typical collectibles of 14 year boys. Kenorbi however probably has some quick Ebay profits in mind.
"Er yes, well we don't have pins quite yet. But they will be made available at the Maybach party tonite, at the Plaza Hotel."
"Well that sounds like good fun. Will we be on the guest list?"
The hostess with the aristocratic features gives us a good look. Me, old red-eyes, tieless in street clothes. Kenorbi with his four-day beard, sweaty face, rumpled suit and worn shoes. Obviously had a few, too.
"All right, it can be done. Just leave your cards with me, please."
We move on, work for another two hours and are then finished. We leave the exposition grounds and go to my car on the street. However, it has changed its color. And its shape and brand. Wrong: it becomes apparent that my car is no longer there. It was in a no parking zone but not in a towaway area, though.
I make some phone calls and hear that the police has towed it away to a commissariat a few blocks away. It seems they like to do that to foreigners who as a rule don't pay parking tickets. Meanwhile, Kenorbi had wandered away but comes back after a minute, with a beer can in his hand, steaming.
"Fuck this shit, fuck it, fuck the fucking french and the fucking cops, stupid fucking fascists. This is gonna be expensive and cost us. Why didn't you have the sense to park the car in the fucking parking garage?"
"Because it was more convenient this way. And you didn't say i should."
"Yeah then I'm fucking stupid too. I hate this shit."
"Now settle down Kenorbi, it's a normal occurance when you drive a car, remember?"
He shrugs and lights a cig. I cross the street in the assumed direction of the police station. Kenorbi soon follows me, jaywalking over, through honking cars, to a traffic police woman on a traffic isle. He asks her for directions while I hide behind a van, embarrassed. She looks at this wild-eyed man, beer can in one hand, cigarette in the other, in ignorance of traffic rules, and she smiles. Looks inside her leather-bound booklet with maps and tells Kenorbi where to go. He gives her a smile and nod of thanks and then crosses the street, again on a red light, again forcing cars to swerve and honk.
Three blocks though the gorgeous sun and we can't help loving Paris again. We reach the police station which is actually an underground, glass-enclosed, camera-protected area. The lady in charge, a young black lady with a sweet smile, banters with us and explains, very patiently, where we can find the car after paying the $95 fee. Before we take an elevator down three stories, she tells us to have a nice stay in Paris, and to try not to break any more traffic laws.
In a sooty, dark and dank area we find the car and get in to drive away, but at that moment two Mad-Max-type tow-trucklets stop ahead of us, blocking our path. The drivers, young african guys with surley expressions on their faces, get out, greet each other and light cigarettes, and start to have a chat.
This goes on a few minutes, and we get impatient. I start my car's engine and rev it a few times, but the black guys continue to ignore us. I put on the headlights, but no reaction: this is their territory and they are glad to let us wait. Not knowing what else to do, I look in the corners of the car for some suitably bad music and find an old Radiohead MD: OK Computer, a record I played about 60 times in 1996 but now find unlistenable. I crank up the volume; the guys give us a slightly pained look and get in their trucks and we are free to leave.
"Kenorbi, what about dinner before we drive home."
"Why, let's go to the Plaza, of course. Maybach is waiting for us."
"Are you kidding? The Plaza is the best hotel in Paris. We're not dressed right. We look like bums."
"But M, think about it. Food and drinks. Nice ladies. Adventure. All free of charge. The worst thing that could happen is that they don't let us in."
I think about it. He does have a point.
So we drive to the Champs Elysee, take a left on Montaigne and there we are, the Plaza Athénée Paris. A smallish hotel that was the favorite place for the Roosevelts, for Mata Hari, the Kennedys, and countless other luminaries. Our plan to hit the restrooms and freshen up is obviously flawed because by the way we look, we might not even get into the lobby. We pass by numerous bodyguards and foreign-looking guys dressed Knesset-style, with shirt collars over suit jackets, whispering into mobile phones. A quick look around the small lobby, but there is no sign of a Maybach party. There are, however, two maitre d's in front of the entrance to the three-michelin-star restaurant where an evening menu meal costs around $300, drinks not included. Most people here look like they could buy and sell me in a morning's bout of easy business. And I am wearing the brown synthetic Stussy jacket in which McCutcheon slept one night in Seattle. My clothes are quite pricey actually, but they sure don't look it.
I approach a young lady in a beige suit who is standing around aimlessly, looking official.
"Excuse me, would you happen to know where the Maybach party is taking place tonite."
"Ah yes welcome, please follow me"
We go through long soft-lighted halls where beautiful young things sit on sofas, looking bored. At the entrance to a bar stand three managerial-type ladies dressed in expensive black. We say good evening and are asked for our invitation cards; there is no list of invitees.
"Sorry, we don't have cards but the young lady at the Maybach stand invited us."
"And may I ask who this young lady was?"
"Oh sorry, I forgot her name."
"Hm."
Kenorbi, nervous, blurts out:
"Well actually I just asked her for pins and she said to come to the party to get them".
I give him a wide-eyed stare at this blunder. He is obviously shocked at his own unthinking words. Full of pity, I go into autopilot and ignite my most charming smile.
"Really really sorry, there seems to be a misunderstanding. We were under the impression that this was a regular press party and upon being invited came here without proper preparation. If it is a black-tie event we will be glad to return later in appropriate garb."
The hostess gives me a smile and a long inquisitive look. And scans Kenorbi who looks really grungy.
"Oh never mind, I think it is quite in order. Please come in and just enjoy yourself."
We enter and a waiter dressed in Comme des Garcons leads us to a lounge table. We are served champagne (1988 Vueve Cliquot Royale which we take instead of one of the wines being offered, for example a 1990 Louis Latour Beaune, Premier Cru), and a selection from the first round of amuses bouches -- small foodlets to tickle the palate:
Osetra caviar from the Caspian Sea
Pata Negra Bellota ham with gribiche sauce
Baby lobster and shellfish, clear lobster broth with herbs
Red Atlantic tuna sashimi with white truffles, mango, coriander and truffles in a salad
...
We eat and drink with a feeling of relief.
"Man M, that was close. You saved my ass."
"Think nothing of it Kenorbi. Just do me one favor."
"Anything you say."
"Whatever you do, don't be stuffing your pockets with the foodstuffs or with the ashtrays here, okay?"
"You asshole. You think I am some kinda cheap bum, don't you."
"Ha ha just joking. Listen Kenorbi, it's great to be here in Paris, isn't it."
"You bet M, this town has class."
We drink some more, eat some more, drink some more... you get the picture. After five glasses of Champs I don't mind the feeling of being out of place. I feel happy and fully of energy and slightly disreputable even though the folks in the Maybach bar are, quite simply, boring. The guys are either old, or young and dour, and the women either look like the wives of Mercedes managers from Stuttgart, or like ex-whore trophy wives.
"This place sucks actually. I thought it was supposed to be fun to be super-rich. I mean look, the Champagne probably costs $200 a bottle but they were too cheap to hire a DJ."
"I know exactly what you mean M but let's enjoy it for what it's worth. Let's see, Hennessy, Maybach cigars, hmm."
Kenorbi orders cigarettes to accompany the brandy which the waitor duly brings. The waitor waits with a stiff smile on his face while Kenorbi lights up. After a short while he says,
"Monsieur five Euros please."
"Come again?"
"Five (pause) Euros".
"Oh, of course."
Obviously Kenorbi thought he would gets the cigs for free. With a dazed look he pulls out his unbelievably threadbare wallet, probably realizing he is broke. I am once again embarrassed and imagine people all around observing us. Suddenly Kenorbi's mobile phone rings and he is saved by the bell. I give the waiter a ten.
We drink and eat and smoke some more. It is getting late and I suggest to drive home. We both have to be in our offices the following day.
"Ah well I can understand you and indeed, we have seen all of what this place has to offer us. Obviously no more adventure to be had here. But instead of going home I have a better idea."
"Kenorbi are you fucking with me once again."
"No really listen to me. Just please take it into serious consideration. I know you are tired enough and you have to drive a lot tonight. But I just had a vision how nice it would be to visit the Rivoli again."
I press my fingers to my temples. The Rivoli, the royal squatters palace. Where with luck a pleasurable few hours are guaranteed. But I am tired as hell.
"Please M. You know, I don't get to Paris so often. It is important to me."
The house at 59, rue Rivoli is covered with a giant spider's web made of polyester. Giant plastic sunflowers and blue replica fish are fixed to the web. It is in a noble area of Paris, with boutiques and perfume shops next door. We ring the bell, the door opens, we go up the stairs to a large room filled with paintings and people.
"Hi, is Gaspard around?"
If the Rivoli is the squatters' palace, then Gaspard is the resident king. He is small, dark and wears a brown pork pie hat and a wide smile on his face.
"Well look at this, are my tired old eyes playing tricks on me or do I see two crazy Germans? Markus, Martino, welcome, welcome! You can only stay for a short while? Impossible!... well, c'est pas grave, I am glad to see you, above all. Come for drinks and smokes and say hello to my friends."
It has been years but some things don't change. A group of artists who at one point decided to squat and were cheeky enough to do it in an expensive part of town. Smart people, they turned their house into a local art area with free exhibitions and courses for local children and gained much popular recognition. Nevertheless, it is what they call the nervous season because, according to French law, nobody can be evicted from a house from November to March and since this is late September, some last-minute evictions are to be feared.
I talk with a few friends of Gaspard and enjoy the warm emotions, and feel at home. A squeal of joy, loud giggling: two girls recognize Kenorbi, he hugs and kisses them on the mouth.
"Sylvie!, Mathilde! What a joy to see you two beautiful women".
After a while, over the talk and music, I notice Kenorbi disappearing with his lady friends. I am slightly worried but actually just envious and decide to let it pass. After all the work and champagne and wine and food and driving I wish I had access to a few of Kenorbi's grams of amphetamines because I am getting drowsy and a guy says,
"my friend you look knackered, why not relax for a moment on the sofa here,"
which I do, and pretty soon I pass out.
Some time later a noise of a door slamming wakes me and I see it is 3:30 am. Most people have gone to bed and someone has been so kind as to put a blanket over me. I fish my mobile out of my jacket and dial Kenorbi.
"Hey man. I hate to do this, but I think you best finish what ever you are doing and come over to the main room, we have got to go, I have to be home in a few hours."
"Well. It is difficult but OK, I promised we could leave whenever you asked. Just give me five minutes."
He arrives alone, with a weary but happy look on his face.
"Kenorbi, I know what you are thinking. More importantly, I know what you are feeling. You feel you belong here, in this town. I understand that."
"Ah M, you may be right, but what the hell. You in any case have your beautiful family waiting for you at home. And your business too."
"That's right."
"I also have work to do in Frankfurt. And my girlfriend is waiting for me".
"Not to forget Mona."
Kenorbi gives me a puzzled look.
"Who is Mona?"
---------
all rights reserved 2002 m balsamico